Korakas ridge

The “Korakas ridge” (IV, 2000m) was first climbed in summer conditions in 1996 by M. Zervas - G. Kalogeropoulos - G. Potamianou.

The route was first climbed in winter conditions (M2, 2000m) in January 1997 by M. Zervas - G. Koukis.

During the first summer ascent, two belays were established, one at the spur and one at the pre-summit of Korakas.

This is one of the most beautiful ridge routes in Greece, rated easy, with an alpine feel, wonderful views and delicate movements. If we add to this the easy access and return, which follow well-known hiking trails, we understand that the many repetitions of the route are not accidental.

The line starts from the top of Skorda Mousounitsas, that is, where winter routes such as the “Korre - Chatzirvasani” gully, the “Korre - Sotiraki” gully, and other neighboring ones end. This gives us the opportunity to climb one of these gullies in winter conditions first and then, without descending from the top of Skorda, to continue on the ridge following the “Korakas ridge”. The “Korakas ridge” is part of the so-called “Integrale” which includes it and the “Western traverse”. In fact, a goal of many climbers is the so-called “Super Integrale” which will include in a continuous winter climb one of the routes of Skorda Mousounitsas, the “Korakas ridge” and the entire “Western traverse”.

The gear that we will need to repeat the route depend on the conditions, whether they are winter or summer. However, a series of nuts, a hammer, some nails, slings and a rope for belaying are considered essential. A second rope will be needed in case we abandon the ridge by rappelling. In summer, climbing shoes are not needed, only good approach shoes, while in winter, light shoes that accept crampons and of course a pair of crampons and an ice axe are needed. In case of poor visibility, loss of orientation is almost certain, so the use of a map and compass (or GPS) is considered essential.

The indicative duration of a summer traverse of the ridge is 4 to 5 hours, but in winter the duration is unpredictable and certainly longer, mainly due to the weight of the gear, but also due to the possible instability of the snow.

If we haven’t previously climbed Skorda Mousounitsas from any route, access to the beginning of the ridge is from the path that leads from Prophet Elias to the refuges, but turning left at Kokkino Lithari (at the iconostasis next to the dirt road) for Koprisies, the highlands located between Skorda Mousounitsas and the peak of Gioni To Plai. At Koprisies, we climb to the second plateau and from there we head left and up towards the slope of Skorda, where we will climb to the summit, from where we will begin the traverse towards Korakas. In winter, this access may encounter snow or ice with angles up to 45°.

After completing the route, from Korakas we descend to the plateau of Megas Kampos and from there we either return to Koprisies (heading northeast) with the ridge on our right, or we descend to the refuges (to the west), or we return directly to Athanasios Diakos village from the Asanser path (5Km, heading northeast) with the ridge on our left.