Agnoston

The first ascent of the route “Agnoston” (VI+, 350m) was realized in early 70’s by D. Korres - G. Martzoukos.

It is considered to be a classic route, since it is very often repeated by climbers, despite the bad condition of the permanents pitons. During the opening up of the route, a piton was found high enough, which means that some unknown climbers had already climbed the line (or at least just a part of the route).

The line is equipped with many pitons, mostly along the difficult pitches. In order to repeat the route, one should be equipped with a set of nuts, friends and slings.

The hardest pitches are the 1st, the 8th and the 13th. Be careful with the route finding, especially as regards the 7th, 8th and 13th pitch.

The 1st pitch starts by going to the right and then to the left, up on a difficult wall, which though can be well protected.

The 2nd pitch follows the imaginable line toward the belay which is visible straight up.

The 3rd pitch moves to the left, following a series of pitons, and then upwards on a small dihedral.

The 4th pitch is called “jungle” because it passes through a ledge with dense vegetation and so leads to the belay, just before a narrow chimney.

The 5th pitch follows at first the chimney and after the piton it continues on a slab (V+) that leads to a ledge, where the belay is set.

The 6th pitch is the easiest one and its belay is set on a piton.

The 7th pitch is basically the continuance of the 6th its belay is also set on a piton, which is placed on the base of a wall but which is not always visible as it might be covered by dirt or grass.

The 8th pitch is seen as the most difficult. At first it goes up on the slab above the belay, then it traverses to the right and right after it goes up toward a small overhang. After the overhang, follows a difficult but protected slab, which leads up and to the left toward a small ledge, where the belay is set. The belay can be built on the two pitons that already exist, or even better by using the hidden thread found a bit to the left.

Both the 9th and the 10th pitch follow a dihedral, with no permanent pros, which however can be well protected. These two pitches can be united in one 50m pitch. R10 is equipped with two 8mm bolts.

The 11th pitch goes to the right, following a crack-dihedral in which medium nuts can be placed, up to the belay which is set next to a natural stalactite.

The 12th pitch is rather easy and ends in a big moist cave. The belay must be built in this cave by using natural pros, but unfortunately there are no appropriate places for placing nuts or friends. So, 1 - 2 pitons and a hammer might be useful at that point.

The 13th pitch, which basically requires self-control, initially moves to the right and downwards so as to come out of the cave and then it follows the ridge to the right of the cave. At that point, it starts traversing on the slab, upwards and to the right, following the pitons. The exit calls for safe moves, with direction toward another cave, where the belay is set on natural pros (mostly friends).

The return involves traversing toward the right and passing by the water source, which also offers cold drinkable water. Then, after following the terrace and getting past the big side-to-side cave, start descending from the flat slope that eventually leads down to the dirt road.