Kato Psilo (2220m) is one of the highest summits of west Vardousia and it is situated southeast of Plaka - Piramida group while it is separated from Pano Psilo (2160m) by the steep couloir of the west face side that ends at the Anemistos waterfall. It is best suited for summer climbing with the romantic story of the initial route establishment showcasing the beauty which surrounds the peak.
Kato Psilo consists of a long, narrow massif running from north to south, at the northernmost end of which is the main peak, but also of an impressive pillar to the west, characterized by two parallel fissures, with its base located on the large ledge above Koufolaka and its summit ending in another ledge, below the main peak. The northern side of the main peak, as well as the gullies on its eastern and western sides, are of climbing interest. The western pillar, lower down, has many interesting lines (ridges and slabs), but its two parallel fissures attract more attention.
Kato Psilo offers mainly rock climbing routes, with traditional protection and an alpine character, throughout faces and ridges, with difficulties from III up to V+ and a height of more than 150m. On account of its orientation, but also its protected position, it is ideal for climbing during the warm summer months, but the rock is considered of poor quality compared to the neighboring Pano Psilo.
Between Pano and Kato Psilo, in the gully that separates them, even in summer, a stream of water flows, which when it increases in volume in the spring when the snow melts, creates the impressive Anemistos waterfall, 100m high. This water can be particularly useful for climbers who want to climb there.
In the ledges of western Vardousia, lives a population of wild goats (rupicapra rupicapra or chamois) which are beautiful and admirable, but can cause accidents as they run on the rocks and throw small or large stones.
Access
To climb on Kato Psilo, the most appropriate point of access is the village of Artotina to the west, with the approach made possible by the E4 trail or a dirt road.
From Artotina we approach either by hiking, a distance of 7km and a duration of 3hr, or via a dirt road and a short hike on a wooded ridge lasting 15min, to finally reach the large clearing at the Koufolaka location, which is ideal for camping as there is a spring 400m northeast.
Access to the base of the routes from Koufolaka is initially done in a northeasterly direction and then, with an easy climb, we ascend to a sloping ledge, on which we traverse to the right, initially on a very narrow path, with an increased risk of falling.
After climbing the main peak, the return is made by descending from a gully to the northwest, or from the southern ridge, or from another gully, using rappel where necessary.
In general, Pano and Kato Psilo are connected to the Plaka - Pyramida complex by cols and these cols are connected to each other by a path at the base of the western slope of Plaka. Therefore, to return from these peaks, in case of need, we can traverse to the base of Plaka in a southerly direction, to the Plaka - Alogorachi col, from where we easily descend to Mousounitsiotika Livadia and Skasmeni Strougka. Using the same path, we can traverse under the north side of the main peak of Kato Psilo and then head south to descend to the level of the large western ridge where, heading north, we will pass under Pano Psilo to finally descend to Koufolaka. In general, for safety reasons, it is good to have acquired a good knowledge of the hiking routes that cross them before climbing in the western Vardousia so as not to make mistakes on our returns. In the landscape of the western Vardousia, during the winter months when it is covered with snow, all accesses and returns change, while additional dangers appear, such as for example the very steep slope of the traverse at the base of Plaka, where a fall can be fatal.
Climbing history
Kato Psilo was first climbed by the G. Petrocheilos - A. Petrocheilou - T. Gibons party during their visit to Vardousia in 1936. The beauty of the mountains and the experience of the attempt must have certainly remained in the mind of the G. and A. Petrocheilou couple, which returned in 1946 and established another route on the west face.
Maybe Kato Psilo offers something romantic since in 1964 followed the completion of two new unknown, but certainly contemptible, routes by the G. and K. Michalidis couple, with difficulties of III up to V+ and a height of 150m, on the north ridge and east face respectively.
General interest in Kato Psilo fell over the following years, as climbing developed on nearby peaks, and as such there were no new additions until 1986 when Tr. Adamakopoulos completed the first winter ascent of the peak via the south ridge. Even though some climbers, like G. Theocharopoulos and D. Mavropoulos - D. Aivazidis - K. Kazdaglis, have attempted to add their own lines on the western pillar, no successful attempt after 1986 is known.
