Ploumi - Geka

The route “Ploumi - Geka” (IV+ A1, 110m) was first climbed on 19/11/1970 by A. Ploumis - K. Geka.

The route was opened using aids (A1 with ladders), while it must have been first climbed free by D. Korres with an unknown rope partner. On 16/6/2024, N. Floros - R. Kyvelou-Kokkaliari also climbed it free and rated it VI- (on 2 pitches of 40m and 60m). Two descriptions follow, first the original one using aids (for historical reasons) and then the modern one with free climbing. The two sketches corresponding to these descriptions are also provided.

Original description

On the 1st pitch we start from a wall (IV, 3 pitons) and then we enter the main route, where belaying is very difficult due to shallow cracks and holes (20m, A1, 10 pitons). Straight above the belay point there is a water line on the wall.

On the 2nd pitch we continue to the right on aid ladders and then, for 10m, diagonally right on a dihedral with many dry bushes (IV+, 5 pitons) and we reach a pine tree, where is the belay point.

On the 3rd pitch we traverse 2m left and enter a dihedral that goes diagonally right (20m, IV, 2 pitons) until we come out on a ledge, where we meet the “Idosides” route.

On the 4th pitch we enter the “Idosides” route, climb a small wall (IV, A1, 2 pitons), traverse easily to the left, enter the large dihedral heading diagonally right (III, 3 pitons), traverse right (3m, IV, 1 piton) and come out on a ledge for the belay.

On the 5th pitch we continue on a dihedral heading to the right (25m, III) until we come out on a ledge for the belay.

On the 6th pitch we follow an easy wall (25m, II) to the top of the tower.

The first ascent took about 7 hours, 25 pitons were placed and included sections of free and aid (A1) climbing.

Modern description

For the 1st pitch (VI-, 40m) we follow the dihedral on the southwest side of the tower, with a characteristic white “stain” from water. Along it there are several old pitons that had been used by the climbers for aided climbing. Almost all the pitons need attention because they are very old. At the beginning, the belay is easily reinforced in a clearly visible through-hole (where a sling was left). At the end of the dihedral, the line slopes to the right, into grassy terrain and is belayed to a tree. We follow the pitons to the right until the first relay (equipped with stainless steel bolts) in a small ledge.

For the 2nd pitch (IV, 60m) we follow the pitons, initially moving straight on a slab and then in an easy characteristic crack that traverses steadily to the right to the top. Again there are clearly visible pitons. The relay is done at the top of the tower on a tree or to its left on the plugs that are also used for rappelling.

The line is suitable for excellent natural protection on excellent quality rock that, according to D. Korres, “resembles Flambouri”, maintaining a strictly traditional climbing style.

To repeat the route, a series of nuts, a series of friends and slings are needed. The arrangement of the relays allows the use of a single 80m rope for climbing and rappelling. The route still has the old pitons on it, but now bolts and rings have been placed on the relays for rappelling. N. Floros - A. Grapsas - A. Markou, in another free repeat they did on 6/1/2025, renewed the old relays and slings.