Tymfi - Astraka - NE. Face

Ligo prin

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Ligo prin" (VI+ A1, 350m) was realized on 10/6/1995 by D. Kallos - G. Voutyropoulos.

The line begins on a wall, 20m to the right of the route "Kopsi ton Triestinon".

The 1st pitch, which presents many loose rock parts, involves an A1 passage (abseil from a piton in order to enter into the dihedral) while the belay is set on a piton.

The 2nd pitch initially follows a narrow crack, then leads to a characteristic roof (VI+) and finally goes up on a dihedral that leads to a sloping mossy ledge (during the first ascent of the route, the belay was set above that roof).

The 3rd pitch moves on the ledge, with direction toward the foot of the chimney.

The 4th pitch follows the chimney, which has been climbed during an older attempt and which is protected with two pitons, until the second sloping mossy ledge.

The 5th pitch moves on the ledge and it requires caution as regards the orientation. The direction that must be followed is toward a characteristic cave, following obvious dihedrals on the right side.

The 6th pitch (VI) and the 7th pitch (V+) lead high on a ridge, where they meet the line of "Kopsi ton Triestinon" and they follow it up to its end.

The gear required for the ascent of the route consists of a set of nuts and a set of friends, while it would be even safer if some pitons were included.

The first repetition of the route was realized on 17/7/2000 by H. Mpelogiannis - G. Voutyropoulos.

On 16/8/2006, G. Torelli - N. Karympalis climbed the first pitch of the route by entering directly into the dihedral, meaning without accessing it by abseiling from the left, and they rated it at VI. Moreover, they added a few pieces of equipment that facilitate the escape from R4. Specifically, they added 2 pitons to R4, 1 bolt at the base of the rock under R3 and 1 bolt under R2 (5m below), from where it takes just one abseil of 60m to get down to the ground.

"Ligo prin"

Variation of the 1st pitch by Torelli - Karympalis

Source: Korfes i. 116, G. Voutyropoulos, G. Torelli
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27