Varasova - Kryoneri - W. Face


Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Afrikana" (VI, 200m) was realized on 4/5/1975 by D. Korres - John X and since then it is one of the most classic routes of Varasova.

The route is protected by some in-between permanent pros, while all belays are equipped with rings which are suitable for abseiling. In order to repeat this climb, a set of nuts, a set of friends and slings are required. The quality of the rock is the best.

The 1st pitch (30m) starts with an easy dihedral (IV+), it moves upwards and to the right and finally leads to the ledge with the belay, which is used for other neighbouring routes as well.

The 2nd pitch (40m) starts with a right traverse, then goes straight up for a few meters, after that it follows a balancy traverse (V+), then it continues straight up toward the dihedral and after passing the hard part of the dihedral (V+) it comes to the belay.

The 3rd pitch (30m) starts with a passage (VI) right above the belay, by which it surpasses the ridge in order to get to the slab, to the right of which there is a belay, of the neighbouring route "Hristoforos Agnoglou", then it continues on a dihedral which is protected by nuts and slings and finally, with a balancy (V+) exit to the left, it reaches the belay ledge.

The 4th pitch (25m) goes straight up and slightly to the right, but after the bold (about 5m above the belay) goes left to the base of a water groove, which progressively gets more and more difficult (VI-) and finally leads to the belay.

The 5th pitch (20m) continues straight up on a slab (V) and then on an easy dihedral that leads to the belay, which is used for "Hristoforos Agnoglou" as well.

The 6th pitch (30m) goes at first up and slightly to the right so as to get into a dihedral (V), till a tree, at the base of which there is the belay.

The 7th pitch (25m) goes behind the tree and easily (IV-) leads to a ledge, next to a big tree, where the belay is found; this same belay is used for the neighbouring "Ellinomania" as well.

Return is possible by abseiling, using either the belays of the same route, or of the neighbouring "Hristoforos Agnoglou" or "Ellinomania". Alternatively, although it is not recommended, a short right traverse (4m) from R7, lead to the big ledge, from where the red marks lead right and lower, to the abseils of "Pyrgos" and "Kalidonische".

Due to the west orientation of the route, even during the hot days of the summer a quick party has the time to climb it early in the morning, before the sun hits.

Source: Anevenontas i. 17, D. Mavropoulos, I. Palapanoglou, A. Orfanakos
Photographs: Anevenontas
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Area: Varasova
Location: Kryoneri
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2012-12-04