Western traverse

The first winter ascent of the route “Western traverse” (V 2 M2, 8000m) was realized on March 1994 by B. Tsoupras - Th. Papagiannis - G. Tzavelas - Th. Darmaros - G. Kekedakis in two days.

This is one of the most beautiful winter routes in Greece, with a large length, an alpine feel, wonderful views, exposed ridges and a lot of rock climbing. For these reasons, since the 90s it has been one of the routes climbed by Intermediate Mountaineering Schools of Greece.

The traverse starts from Meterizia col and passes successively through the peaks of Skoufia, Soufles, Alogorachi, Plaka, Pyramida and Gidovouni in a general direction from south to north. Many climbers abandon the route when reaching the col between Pyramida and Gidovouni. It is not known whether the first ones who climbed it in the winter of 1994 also climbed Gidovouni or not. The route does not include all the peaks of the western Vardousia, since those located further west of the ridge are outside a relatively straight path.

The most impressive and at the same time most difficult and dangerous part of the route is the traverse of Plaka and the climb of Pyramida peak, while the descent of Pyramida requires rappelling. Of course, a good knowledge of the geography of the mountain, comfort in moving on sharp ridges, the use of orientation equipment and good preparation for bivouac are considered absolutely essential.

If after Pyramida we also climb Gidovouni, the descent from the summit can be done either by returning to the col with Pyramid, or by following the summer path, with an initial direction northeast, so that we can descend the eastern slope and then head towards Skasmeni Strougka (about 1.5Km) for the return.

The gear needed for the route depends mainly on the skills of the climbers. With one 8mm rope we can belay in difficult parts, but for rappelling we will need two ropes. The necessary equipment includes a harness, a helmet, a set of nuts, some small friends, several slings and carabiners. A hammer and pitons are optional and useful only in case of emergency abandonment. In case of poor visibility, loss of orientation is almost certain, so we must have a map and a compass (or GPS) in our backpack. In addition to these, our backpack must be equipped with everything we will need for an overnight stay in the open air (bivouac).

To return from the Pyramida - Gidovouni col, we must move east for about 1Km to the sheepfolds in Skasmeni Strougka and from there, following the dirt road in a general direction to the southeast for about 4Km, to reach Stavros, that is, the intersection that on the right leads to the refuges and straight to Athanasios Diakos. The distance from the Pyramida - Gidovouni col to Prophet Elias is over 6Km on a snowy field, which means a few hours return, if the snow is soft. To this we must add the time we will need to reach the place we have left the car. Since the duration of the return cannot be calculated precisely (it depends mainly on the snow conditions), in case of reduced visibility (night, fog, snowstorm) there is a risk of losing orientation, which is why the use of a compass and map (or GPS) is essential.

Due to the large length of the route, many hours of climbing and a long return are required, which is why we need to start it very early in the morning, so we should spend the night before the climb somewhere nearby and it is good to do this as high up on the mountain as possible. Where exactly we will spend the night depends on the planning of the climbers, but indicative places are the plateau of the Athanasios Diakos water supply tank, Prophet Elias, the sheepfolds near Stavros and the accommodation in one of the two refuges or camping outside them. Perhaps the most suitable spot is to stay or camp outside the POA refuge, because it is located high up, very close to the beginning of the route. Experienced and fast climbers can complete the route in one day, if the overnight stay before the climb is at the POA refuge or somewhere closer to the start.

If the route is not completed in one day, for an intermediate bivouac, a suitable spot is the col between Alogorachi and Plaka, where we can dig a snow hole or simply sleep while observing the stars. On the smooth slope, there are many rocks (boulders) that, with the help of the sun, create large recesses around them, suitable to accommodate many people, protecting them from the wind. In this col, Intermediate Mountaineering Schools also tend to bivouac.

If the attempt is completed late and there is no time or enough strength to return, suitable overnight stops are again the Pyramida - Gidovouni col and the sheepfolds in Skasmeni Strougka (about 1Km east of the col).

Since the 1990s, the goal of many climbers has been to include it in a major traverse that, in advance, was called “Integrale” and consisting of continuous climbing in winter conditions of the routes “Korakas ridge” and “Western traverse”, including Gidovouni. An even greater goal is the so-called “Super Integrale”, which consists of continuous climbing of the routes “Korre - Chatzirvasani”, “Korakas ridge” and the entire “Western traverse” with Gidovouni.