Falakro - Kartalka - NE. Face

Virus

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “Virus” (III 2 M2+, 400m) was realized on 30/1/2000 by Th. Chatzisyrlis - T. Zaharopoulos.

The 1st pitch (50m) starts on the right side of the ridge (45°) and the belay station is set round a tree.

The 2nd pitch (50m) continues on the ridge, passes through a small dihedral (M2) and goes on until the belay station.

The 3rd pitch (30m) follows the same direction (45° - 50°, 30m) and ends on a comfortable ledge with a big fir, which is used for the belay. At this point the line meets the routes “Butterfly ridge” and “Vegetarian”.

The 4th pitch moves on the left side of the ridge, until it meets a characteristic gully, which it follows.

The rest of the pitches continue in the same gully and so, after a few mixed passages of maximum difficulty rate M2, the line reaches the col between the peaks Kartalka II and III.

In order to repeat this ascent, one should be equipped with a set of nuts, small and medium friends and 2 pitons. The time required for this climb is about 4,5hr.

The approach to the route takes about 2hr from the parking of the ski center, depending on the conditions. At first, we head to Kartalka, then we go down to its base and after passing “Kartalka ridge”, we descend slantwise to the left, towards “Butterfly ridge”, which we get past and then we start to go up, on its right side, for about 200m, having on our right hand a characteristic rock belt that goes down the ridge. The route starts at the base of the rock belt and actually on its right side.

Source: A. Boskos
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Published: 2007-05-12
Modified: 2026-03-06
Area: Falakro
Location: Kartalka
Panorama: NE. Face
Geolocation: