Dirfi - Kotroni

The new blood

Rock, Traditional

The route “The new blood” (VI+, 75m) has been established on 24/5/2020 by G. Papadoulis - C. Efthymiou.

The route consists of three pitches, all of them with double bolted belays.

For the 1st pitch (VI-, 25m), we start on a couloir and go up to a grassy ledge. After, we encounter a slab (VI-, 1 piton). Further up, we follow a ramp with a wild olive tree (cordellette) and after the ramp there is a dihedral, where the relay is located.

For the 2nd pitch (V, 30m), we start a little bit further from the dihedral on the arete and, after placing protection, we move again towards the dihedral (V) until the relay. In this pitch, attention is required on loose rocks and on the grassy ledge.

For the 3d pitch (VI+, 20m), which is the most beautiful, we start on the right and go into open crack-dihedral and up to overhanging shoulder offwidth (VI+). Then we continue upwards and arrive at a tower, where the relay is located.

Once we complete the route, we can reach the ground via a long (55m) rappel.

Approach is minimal, we park on the dirt road on the last big left curve of the road 200m before the climbing crag.

Sketch of the route.

Line of the route.

Source: C. Efthimiou
Photographs: C. Efthimiou
Translation: S. Tzeranis
Editing: S. Tzeranis, I. Varia
Published: 2026-10-05
Modified: 2026-10-06
Area: Dirfi
Location: Kotroni
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