Super Integrale

The super route “Super Integrale” (V 4- M2+, 11000m) was climbed for the first time on 28/2/2026 by Chr. Tsoutsias - D. Daskalakis.

The name “Super Integrale” was given in advance, before it was even made, not to a regular route, but to the combination of three routes with successive climbing and with winter conditions. The line includes successive (and complete) climbing with winter conditions of the routes “Korre - Chatzirvasani” or “Korre - Sotiraki”, “Korakas ridge” and “Western traverse”.

During the first complete attempt, the routes “Korre - Sotiraki”, “Korakas ridge” and “Western traverse” were climbed, where in Gidovouni the ascent was not simply from “Michailidi - Liagkou” which is the easy southern gully, but from “Botini - Loukeri” which is the rocky southern ridge, climbing there 5 pitches of 50m with a maximum difficulty of VI-. The attempt began at 2:30am from the water tank and was completed at the top of Gidovouni, from which they descended via “Michailidi - Liagkou”. In total, until the return to the tank, it took 18,5 hours while the distance they covered (walking and climbing) was 23Km and the altitude 3010m. Bivouac was not necessary.

So far, various iterations of larger or smaller sections are known, such as that of N. Voutyropoulos - G. Voutyropoulos in 1998, who probably climbed the “Subgully” at Skorda Mousounitsas, the “Korakas ridge” and the “Western traverse” up to the Pyramida - Gidovouni col, omitting Gidovouni.

In general, the complete route starts from Skorda Mousounitsas and includes continuous climbing of the routes “Korre - Chatzirvasani” or “Korre - Sotiraki”, “Korakas ridge” and the entire “Western traverse” with Gidovouni. After completing “Korre - Chatzirvasani” or “Korre - Sotiraki”, the ridge we will find ourselves on is essentially the beginning of the “Korakas ridge”, so we continue on the ridge without interruption, until Korakas summit, from there we descend to Megas Kampos and from there to the POA refuge or to Meterizia.

Normally the effort requires one or more bivouacs, before the climb or in between. The most suitable bivouac spots seem to be the water tank opposite Skorda Mousounitsas for the first, the POA refuge for the second and the Alogorachi - Plaka col for the third. Of course, a good knowledge of the geography of the mountain, comfort in moving on unsecured ridges, the use of orientation equipment and good preparation for bivouac, are considered absolutely essential.

The gear needed for the route depend mainly on the skills of the climbers. With an 8mm rope we can belay at the difficult points of the two edges, but for rappelling we will need two ropes. However, especially for climbing “Korre - Chatzirvasani” we will definitely need two ropes, 2 - 3 ice screws, some pitons and 2 snow anchors (Deadman or equivalent), thus increasing the difficulty and seriousness of the “Super Integrale”. The necessary gear include the harnesses, the belay devices, the helmets, a series of nuts, some small friends, several slings and carabiners. Hammer and nails are optional and useful only in case of emergency abandonment. In case of poor visibility, loss of orientation is almost certain, so we must have a map and compass (or GPS) in our backpack. In addition to these, our backpack must be equipped with everything we will need for an overnight stay in the open air (bivouac).

Note: The route description given is approximate and only concerns the climbing section and not the intermediate sections that are done on foot. The descent by foot from Korakas to the POA shelter is 2Km and from there to the base of Skoufia is also 2Km. The circular route, climbing and hiking, with the starting and return point at the water tank, has a total length of approximately 23Km, including access, climbing and return. At hellaspath.gr and at el.wikiloc.com one can find exact access and return routes.