The first ascent of the route “South wind” (VI+, 265m) was realized on 13/10/2001 by D. Mavropoulos - D. Aivazidis.
The first repetition of the route was realized on 2/2/2002 by A. Simatis - N. Papas.
The route starts at the top of big scree, to the right of a characteristic crack, which we meet at the side of the footpath that leads to the summit of Varasova after 20min walking. It consists of six pitches and finishes on the top of the pillar, leading that way to the big leaning ledge, from where return is possible. The quality of the rock is excellent, without sharp rock parts, and climbing is enjoyable, with neither unpleasant surprises nor particular difficulties.
The most challenging pitch is the 2nd one, but the nicest one is rather the 3rd. The 4th and the 6th pitch are exactly 50m long and the belay is only just reached in case 50m ropes are used, while at the 6th pitch, and specifically at the exit of the dihedral, there are loose rocks, the only ones along the whole route, created by wedged rocks, which could be dangerous for the belayer.
Even though the route is protected by bolts, one shall also need to be equipped with a set of nuts, a few friends (medium and big ones) and slings in order to repeat the climb. In case of emergency, the crag offers several solutions for in-between anchors as well as for belays on cracks, spikes, threads and trees.
All belays are equipped with double rings, suitable for abseiling, all of which in a straight line, which makes return even easier. Nevertheless, the abseil of the 6th pitch requires extra caution as it is exactly 50m long and there is also possibility of ropes being stuck when pulling.
Note: When the route was first climbed, an easy path is revealed for access to/from the ledge in case of emergency (abandonment or rescue). For this path, we start from the plateau at the base of the “Shining Path”, where on the far right there is an easy passage (II), which leads to the 4th belay of the route and from there, we continue a little to the right to the ridge, which we follow (III) and after passing the 6th belay of the route on the right, we come out to the ledge. This access route is not a hiking path because it requires some belay points during the movement, but it is the fastest we can follow to reach the ledge.
Warning: In the event of heavy rain, the rock of the “South wind”, “Broken wing” and “The travel of the Argonauts” routes, as well as the ground beneath them, is very likely to receive a large volume of rocks coming from the ledge, because much of the ledge water flows to this point.
Sketch of the route.