The first ascent of the route “Short exit” (VI-, 215m) was realized on 24/7/1994 by V. Vroutsis - T. Petrocheilos.
The route begins at the large ledge, approximately 20m to the left of the base of the “Meniscus” tower.
For the 1st pitch (I/II, 40m), we start by moving diagonally up and left, avoiding the 5th pitch of the “Elevator” route, across a grassy, sloping area (I/II) to reach the ledge where the “Elevator” R5 anchor is located; We set up our belay there using pro.
For the 2nd pitch (II/III, 25m), we continue by traversing right along the ledge toward the distinctive cave; Continuing the traverse (III), we finally reach the R2 anchor of the “Mavri - Zikopoulou” variation.
For the 3ird pitch (V+/VI-, 55m), we continue over easy yet vertical grassy terrain, featuring occasional moves (IV), before reaching the final overhanging dihedral (V+/VI-). Here, using beautiful, airy movements and well-hidden holds, we pull up onto a small ledge. From the ledge, we continue with an easy but unprotected move to step up into a zone of easy, loose, broken rock, where we set up a belay using a small spike and cams.
For the 4th pitch (III, 35m), we continue up and to the right over easy terrain, eventually reaching the summit, marked by a cairn, where we set up a belay on a large, free-standing block.
For the 5th pitch (III+, 60m), we continue (optionally moving simultaneously) descending slightly behind the top of the tower and then ascending to the right via an easy, positive-angled passage (III+). We then emerge onto the slope and proceed to a large, sloping, grassy ledge (the “Meniscus” return ledge), where we will find cairns and pack up our gear.
A repeat ascent requires a set of nuts and cams (Totem #0.65 - #3, with some duplicates to ensure sufficient coverage), as well as pitons for the belay stations or for retreat. Rock quality is good, with the exception of a loose section at the start of the 4th pitch. The 2nd and 3rd belay stations were originally equipped with one piton each, though these are no longer present. The route can be well protected throughout using nuts and cams, and all belay stations can be built using gear in secure spots.
The route can be combined with “Elevator”, allowing us to start from the base of the main face and, upon reaching the R5 belay of “Elevator”, traverse right to enter “Short exit”.
The first recorded repeat ascent took place on 12/7/1997 by N. Mavris - F. Zikopoulou. Unknowingly, they repeated the line but started from the base of the “Meniscus” tower, adding two pitches and thereby establishing the “Mavri - Zikopoulou” variation (V+, 65m). Although the “Mavri - Zikopoulou” was initially published as a new route, it is essentially a significant variation that added interest to future repeats, as it followed a more logical and natural line from the base to the tower's summit.
For the 1st pitch (V-, 25m) of “Mavri - Zikopoulou”, we start on an easy but somewhat loose slab to enter a dihedral (V-), eventually following the easy, solid line to the right to reach the ledge. It is best to set up the belay here, to the right of the ledge using nuts, rather than continuing further; This avoids rope drag and protects the belayer from loose rock.
For the 2nd pitch (V+, 40m) of “Mavri - Zikopoulou”, we start to the left on the ledge to find a move up from a small overhang onto a slab (using layback moves on a crack); From there, using delicate movements and small footholds, traverse right with another upward move to reach the base of a distinctive crack. The crack can be climbed either via layback technique or by moving left onto a slab using small crimps; It leads to a narrow chimney that exits onto easy, grassy terrain with scattered blocks. Continue for a few meters and set up the belay on a small ledge using cams (Totem #1 - #2) and a sling around a large flake. All sections of the pitch can be well protected with nuts and cams.
The first repeat of the “Mavri - Zikopoulou” variation was made on 9/8/1997 by N. Mavris - A. Asimakopoulos, following a direct variation (V+, 15m) of the 1st pitch.
Access to the route from the refuge takes about 20min and involves traversing the slope, following a path that is nearly horizontal with a slight upward incline, to reach the start of “Nestled”. From there, we continue the traverse to the right to emerge onto the ledge separating the lower and upper sections of “Elevator”; This is the point where the “Meniscus” tower and the route begin.
The return journey begins from the end of the route by heading right along the ledge, following the cairns; After passing a smaller initial gully, a 5min walk leads to a large gully filled with scree. A snow patch may still be present in the gully in early summer. From the base of gully, a traverse across the slope to the left brings you back to the base of the tower, and from there, a 15 - 20min walk along the approach path leads to the refuge.
Modern sketch of the route.
Old sketch of the route.
