The first ascent of the route “Schisma Tarpiias” (VI-, 380m) was realized in summer 1993 by A. Spanoudis - G. Galios, who followed the line of the characteristic huge chimney of Tarpiia Petra. On 18/8/2001, Th. Hatzisyrlis - S. Papageorgiou realized the first repetition of the route without knowing that the line had already been climbed, while they also opened up 4 new pitches (VI A0, 135m) at the start of the line.
This variation of the route starts on an overhanging slab, at the second little cave right under the big chimney. A bit to the right, there are 2 pitons on the slab, one possibly of the route “I. Pantazidis” and the other one of the classical entrance of the route “Schisma Tarpiias”. The line of the route is visible from the ridge, which is located at the foot of Mytikas, under the characteristic huge chimney, and which descends toward Kazania.
The necessary equipment for that climb comprises a set of nuts, a set of friends and a few pitons, some of which will be used for the belays R7 - R8 - R9, since these are not equipped. The first bolt, at the beginning of the route, is located in a hole found to the left, at the little ledge. One must be very careful while climbing the 8th pitch as it very loose.
One can return either by ascending to Mytikas and then descending down the gully, or by following down the marked footpath, which starts from the lower point of the path Skala to Mytikas and leads to Zonaria.
The first repetition of the abovementioned variation was realized by Ch. Ananiadis - Th. Thomidis on 16/8/2005.
