Tymfi - Astraka - NW. Face

Meniscus

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “Meniscus” (VI+, 160m) was realized on 17/8/1984 by D. Bountolas - Chr. Ananiadis.

The route moves in the center of the face of a tower that beetles from the crag, and it follows characteristic line formed by cracks.

The 1st pitch starts from a mossy ramp (II) that leads to the base of an easy dihedral. Alternatively, the pitch may start from a slab (IV) which is found to the right of the ramp and also leads to the base of the same dihedral. This dihedral goes up a mossy leaning ledge, from where begins a chimney. There are two points, one at the beginning of the chimney and one somewhere in the middle, where some wedged stones will make climbing a bit harder. Before the second wedged stone there is a piton. At the exit of the chimney, the belay is made on 2 bolts from which we can rappel. The chimney, after the second wedged stone, becomes very narrow, so that an adult can barely fit and, once inside, he cannot change sides so, if there is a backpack, it would be good to leave on the ledge located between the two wedged stones and to be pulled up later.

The 2nd pitch is the hardest one and it starts with a left traverse (V-, 2m) under a small overhang. This overhang is equipped with one piton and it is rather easy to surpass. On top of it and to the left, there is one more piton. This is the crux of the route (VI+), demanding good balance and friction climbing, while during the first ascent this passage was aid climbed (A1). The pitch continues toward a dihedral (V-) which it crosses to emerge on a slab where there is an old piton. To the right of the slab, on a small ledge, there is an old rappel station with a bolt and three old pitons. After passing the slab, the pitch goes on with a shoulder crack (VI-), which is easily surpassed if the good step to the right is used, while it is also equipped with a piton at its exit. Next, there is a dihedral (V-) and after that, with direction up and right, the pitch moves on a mossy ramp, which cannot be protected, up to the belay which is done on bolts from which rappelling can be done.

The 3rd pitch continues for a bit on the aforementioned mossy ramp, until the base of dihedral, which it follows up to its exit. This dihedral, apart from a passage (V+) at the beginning, is generally rather easy, while it is equipped with 1 piton approximately in the middle and 2 bolts at its exit from which it can be rappelled. After the exit, the pitch continues with a right traverse to a small ledge and meets an easy dihedral (III), after which follows an easy field (II) till the top of the tower. The belay is built on natural pro. If the ropes are 50m, the belay must be set a bit after the exit of the dihedral, about 10m before the peak.

The quality of the rock is very good as there are no loose parts at all, while route finding is really simple.

A small variation of the 1st pitch was made in 2026 by D. Giounis - I. Vellas who, because the entrance to the chimney and the first wedged stone was completely wet, climbed a little to the right a local negative passage (VI-) with pockets and almost without friction (like a boulder passage), which however can be well secured with a nut and a small hexcentric, so that they can exit directly under the second wedged stone.

In order to repeat this climb, a set of nuts and a set of friends are required.

Access to the route from the refuge (duration approximately 20min) is by traversing the slope almost horizontally and slightly upwards, reaching the beginning of “Nestled” to continue the traverse to the right and exit to the ledge that separates the lower and upper parts of “Elevator” and from where the “Meniscus” tower begins.

The return from the end of the route is initially by descending a little behind the peak and then climbing right towards an easy positive pass (III+) to then exit to the slope, up to a large grassy inclined ledge, in which we follow the «cuckoos» (stacked stones) in a right direction and after passing through a first small gully, we exit in 5min to another large gully paved with gravel. There may be snow in the gully early in the summer. From its base, a traverse on the slope to the left will take us back to the base of the tower and from there in 15-20min to the refuge, following the access path.

Sketch of the route.

Source: D. Mavropoulos, EOOS - Climbing guidebook of Astraka, EOOS - Climbing guidebook of Tymfi 1994
Photographs:
Translation: Routes.gr
Editing: Routes.gr
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2026-06-23
Area: Tymfi
Location: Astraka
Panorama:
Geolocation: