Pateras - Kantili

Lithovolismos

Rock, Traditional

The first ascent of the route “Lithovolismos” (VI, 75m) was realized on 29/6/2009 by G. Kagiaftakis - N. Katsios - A. Tsesmetzoglou.

The line moves on a characteristic needle of the crag, only 3m to the right of “Kalo Taxidi”.

The 1st pitch (V+, 35m) starts with a dihedral (IV), on the right of a small tree, and continues on a ledge with plants and plenty of dirt. We move to the right, towards a tree, and from there we climb up and to the left onto a slab (IV+), until the base of a characteristic dihedral. We climb up the dihedral (V+) and then set the belay (2 bolts with rings).

The 2nd pitch (VI-, 30m) continues with a crack-dihedral (V+), at the end of which we traverse to the right (IV), on a slab, until the base of a dihedral (piton). We climb up the dihedral (VI-, bolt before the exit) and continue on a ledge, under a slab with a characteristic crack on its left. The belay station must be set on natural elements of protection.

The 3rd pitch (VI, 10m) starts with this slab (VI), which is well protected, until the base of the pillar. The belay station is set on bolts and a thread. The 2nd and 3rd pitches can be united in one, which however requires extreme caution in the placement of the gear, so as to avoid too many frictions.

The return involves two abseils, from the left side of the pillar. The first one (50m) will get you down to a small tree with a sling, next to which you will see a rock with a belay station (2 bolts). From there, the second abseil (30m) will get you down to the ground.

The route is well protected with nuts and friends (up to Camalot #3). Even though the line has been cleaned up, be careful because there are still some loose parts which might be dangerous.

The line is in shadow after 13:00 and can be climbed even during the summer months.

Kalo taxidi” (left) and “Lithovolismos” (right).

Source: G. Kagiaftakis
Photographs:
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: G. Kagiaftakis
Published: 2009-07-08
Modified: 2011-05-27
Area: Pateras
Location: Kantili
Panorama: Kantili
Geolocation: