Kopsi ton hamenon syntrofon

The first ascent of the route "Kopsi ton hamenon syntrofon" (VII-, 400m) was realized on 26-27/9/1988 by A. Theodoropoulos - D. Sotirakis.

The line follows the characteristic arête on the left of the crack and consists of 1 pitches (400m). Then it comes out on an easy field (II, 120m) which leads to the top.

The route was devoted to the memory of Klimis Tsatsaragos and Dimitris Bountolas, who died in an avalanche in Anapurna in October 1985, as well as to the memory of Christodoulos Delimpaltas and Christoforos Agnoglou, who died in a rockfall in the Alps in August 1987.

The first repetition of the route took place in 1990 by D. Kalos - V. Mitsiou in 14h and a few days later G. Galios - Chr. Ananiadis repeated the same climb in 9h.

For the 1st pitch (VI-, 25m) we start on the wall, 5m - 10m to the left of the ridge of the crack opening, on solid rock, with climbing on a small slab and a dihedral crack and after overcoming a small negative, turn left for the belay on two pitons with a sling. In this pitch, the quality of the rock is excellent.

For the 2nd pitch (VII-, 30m) we enter the very beautiful and demanding dihedral crack, with two pitons in between, where at the end it is blocked with negatives, we make a right traverse with three pitons and we go out to the right of the ridge on a ramp with grass where we make a belay on three pitons. In this pitch, the quality of the rock is excellent.

For the 3rd pitch (V+, 50m) we go straight up, overcome the difficult passage (VII- local with a piton), continue on slabs of grass, follow the right dihedral where we meet a piton and exit to a ledge where there is a belay of "Megalo schisma" but we continue up the dihedral for the belay of the route, which is done on two pitons. In this pitch, the quality of the rock is excellent.

For the 4th pitch (V+, 30m) we go straight to a small dihedral with a piton and then diagonally left again to a dihedral with grasses where we meet a small negative with a sling hanging on a wedged stone (VI- local), we continue on a ramp with grasses where and we meet the belay in two pitons. On this pitch, the rock is a bit loose.

For the 5th pitch (V, 30m) we move towards the small chimney crack where it becomes a little bigger (two pitons with sling), we continue on a grassy ramp to the characteristic nose and a little to the right we find the belay on a piton and a nut wedged with sling. On this pitch, the rock is a bit loose.

For the 6th pitch (V+, 40m) we go straight up a small negative passage (after the passage there is a piton) and then straight into cracks where at the end of them is the belay on two pitons. In this pitch, the rock quality is good.

For the 7th pitch (V, 35m) we go a little to the left on a grassy ledge, we move on a ridge with cracks which at the end becomes very fragile, we meet three pitons and we go out in a belay with two pitons before the broken rocks above us. On this pitch, the rock is loose.

For the 8th pitch (V-, 35m) we go a little on the loose rock and then a left with a traverse under negative rocks in a very loose field, we cross the gully below us and come out on two dihedrals, of which we follow the left one which is more stable and then right again 5m to find a belay with a piton and sling, under yellow negative rock. On this pitch, the rock is very loose and dangerous.

For the 9th pitch (VI, 30m) we overcome the loose negative above us and then move to a very good dihedral where we find the belay on two pitons. In this pitch, the quality of the rock is excellent.

For the 10th pitch (V, 40m) we go straight on an inclined dihedral and then move to the negatives and overcome them from the left with a piton in the difficult passage (VI+ local), to belay on a piton and our own gear. In this pitch, the rock quality is good.

For the 11th pitch (IV, 55m) we go a little left to a loose dihedral chimney and then in broken rocks, encountering generally very loose rock along the entire length of the pitch and finally we do a relay on a rock outcrop. In this pitch, the rock quality is loose.

After completing the 11th pitch, we walk to the large grassy ledge (II, 20m - 30m) and then left on the ledge (II, 20m - 30m) until we meet a grassy gully which we climb (II) and from there right again to meet the stacked stones where the exit of the "Megalo schisma" and the "Kopsi ton Triestinon". From there the return is made following the path with the stacked stones in the ledge, until we meet the central gully from which we will descend to the refuge.