The route “I kopsi tou protari” (III) is unknown when it was climbed for the first time but the first recorded ascent was made by G. Lambrou - Chr. Lambrou on 3/4/2019.
During the first recorded ascent there was no snow on the ridge and no permanent equipment was found on the route or anything to indicate that anyone else had climbed it. It is certain, however, that many have climbed up the gullies to the right and left.
The first two pitches are 60m (I/II) and lead to the base of the most difficult part of the route. For the 3rd there are two options. One is to traverse left and go behind the ridge to bypass this point. The other is to approach it from the slab in front of us. Arriving at the base of the most difficult point, we traverse to the right to a ledge which has good points to put protection gear. From there we start to climb it. Essentially there are only three movements (III/IV) and the insecurity one feels is due to the fragility of the previous part of the route. Fortunately, the rock is of good quality and is easier to overcome than we think. Immediately after, there is a tree in which we do the belay. Three very easy pitches (I/II) follow and the ridge ends on the top.
To repeat the route, small and large slings, half set of nuts 1-8 and DMM #1 and #2 hexes are needed. For a winter repeat, some pitons might be useful.
To access the beginning of the route, follow the dirt road that starts above the village of Kopani. It is usually possible for someone to go up the dirt road by car and after making 2/3 of the way to park at the tap that will be on his left hand as he goes up the dirt road (altitude 930m, coordinates 39.486030, 20.820090). There is space to park only one car. If someone has a 4x4 they can go up to the final stretch of the dirt road (altitude 1170m, coordinates 39.492070, 20.806700) and park there. From there you can see the central gully of Tomaros, but the route starts from the next one to the right (north). Arriving at about 1450m there will be a good view of the route. This is the edge that moves on the right wall from the gully. At the base (altitude 1785m, coordinates 39.489190, 20.793780) there is a tree which is used as a place for preparing and organizing the equipment.
The return is by descent from the central gully when there is snow, otherwise it is from the eastern ridge and from there we enter the dirt road that leads to our car.
Christos Lambrou at the crux of the route.