The first ascent of the route “Diavase me” (VIII, 350m) was realized on 26-27/6/2004 by A. Grapsas - N. Sakelariou, who needed in total 3 years to finish it, while their last attempt involved a bivouac.
The line starts from the right side of a small pillar which is found between the routes “Oikogeneiaki ypothesi” and “Mpampis Tsoupras” and it moves through dihedrals and overhangs, passing the big roof at the central part of the crag, and finally ends on a big ledge, from where it continues to a much easier field.
The elements of protection of the route are absolutely necessary and the gear needed for its repetition consists of a full set of nuts and friends. Extreme caution is required during the 1st and the 8th pitch, while the 10th and 11th pitch are common to both this route and “Oikogeneiaki ypothesi”.
Escaping after the 6th pitch is rather difficult and dangerous since the abseil is quite a few meters out of the base of the route and the previous belay station is not easy to be reached. In case of obligatory escape, a blocked friend with a sling, which is left at the base of the overhang, shall help to reach the belay. This friend had a nasty fall from a great height, from Stefani of Olympus, that’s why it must stay there, blocked on the rock, and not be used anywhere by anyone as a piece of protection.
The first repetition of the route was realized on 7/8/2004 by G. Voutyropoulos - G. Torelli.
On the 7/9/2008, A. Grapsas - G. Voutyropoulos, while climbing the route “Diavase me”, when they reached the ledge of its 9th pitch, where R8 of “Oikogeneiaki ypothesi” is placed, they continued straight up above this belay, and so first climbed a variation of the exit (VII-, 175m) of these two routes. In fact, escape gear (a nut and a sling) was found along the 1st pitch of this variation. For the final exit, the 6th pitch of the variation meets the last pitch (III, 50m) of “Mpampis Tsoupras”, which comes from the right. The necessary equipment for repeating this variation is a full set of nuts and some friends (up to Camalot #3).
The upper part of the route.
The lower part of the route.
“Variation of Grapsas - Voutyropoulos”.