The first ascent of the route “Chrysi tomi” (VIII+ A2, 390m) was realized on 8-9/7/2005 by G. Torelli, with the help of N. Karympalis - V. Soufleros.
The line moves between the routes “Dogma” and “Agnoston”. It starts to the right of the big hole, which is found on the right side of “Dogma”. Be careful with the first pitch, as it might take some good searching in order to find the right way.
It is a challenging route, characterized by high grades of difficulty, barely equipped with permanent pros, while there are also quite a few difficult aid climbing passages.
In order to repeat this route, one should be equipped with a set of nuts and a set of friends (up to No 3) as well as with two RBs 10mm and two RBs 8mm, which shall be used for the aid climbing passages. In particular, the first A1 of the 9th pitch requires the placement of a small friend, while the next A1/A2 takes two RBs 10mm. The rock at this point is completely frictionless and so the ascent by free climbing is impossible. The same goes for the aid climbing parts of the 10th pitch, only that this one requires two RBs 8mm, since the drills there are 8 mm. Aiders can also be of use as they will make ascent easier. In addition, as there are pitches longer than 50m, the ropes that shall be used must be of at least 60m.
RBs (Removable Bolts) are basically cylindrical friends which are placed in different diameter holes which are drilled in the wall. “Chrysi tomi” is the first route in Greece which was opened up with the use of Removable Bolts. In case RBs are not available, they can be replaced by screws of respective diameter (10mm or 8mm) and 2cm length with a bit of rope passed through so as to place them in the holes drilled in that wall. However, bolts or any other kind of patents cannot offer as much safety as RBs do. It has to be mentioned though that even RBs do not always guarantee safety in case of fall, except for those characterized as “Fall protection models”, which of course has to be expressly mentioned in their specifications. The RBs and the screws can be replaced by two Black Diamond Talons which are suitable for holes of various diameters.
The route does not reach the top; it finishes 60m lower, on the same ledge where the route “Agnoston” ends and actually about 40m higher and to the left of that point. Therefore, return involves abseiling down the same route, which is easy to be done since all the belays are almost in the same beeline.
G. Torelli has begun a variation of this route which starts from the 1st belay, it goes straight up toward a little roof and after two pitches it finishes at the 3rd belay of “Chrysi tomi”. At that point, he has left two pitons with a rock sling and two carabiners in case of escape.
The upper part of the route.
The lower part of the route.