The first ascent of the route ” Brokon - Idosidi ” (VI+, 400m) was realized on 22/9/1981 by N. Brokos - G. Brokos - M. Idosidis.
The route, which was established in a 9-hour effort, moves on good quality rock with constant difficulty and was equipped with approximately 20 permanent pitons during its first ascent.
The beginning of the line is common to the one of the preexistent route “Magnone - Antypa” but then “Brokon - Idosidi” continues straight up for 10 pitches until the two lines meet again on the big ledge.
The total time required for this ascent is approximately 9h.
For the 1st pitch (VI-, 40m) we begin on the wall and we approach a characteristic overhang. Rightward traverse on its base (VI-) and straight on the dihedral (V/V+). Belay on a ledge (1 piton).
For the 2nd pitch (V+, 40m) we continue on the dihedral (V/V+, 2 pitons) until a ledge. Belay on gear.
For the 3rd pitch (VI, 25m) we go straight up (sling above the belay) on a difficult shoulder crack (VI) and up the dihedral (V+/VI-) until an uncomfortable belay (2 pitons). The first piton is on the base of the ledge hidden behind grasses!
For the 4th pitch (VI+, 50m) we go straight up until below an overhang (piton on the right before the overhang and below a wedged rock on the left crack). Before the passage there is an old worn sling on the left. On the passage (VI+) there is a piton. We continue on the dihedral-chimney until little cave on the left, where we go right in a narrow crack-dihedral and then straight up in a crack-dihedral until the belay (2 pitons). On our right there is a characteristic cavity.
For the 5th pitch (VI-, 45m) we leave the chimney-dihedral and go up and left on another dihedral. We aim high on the base of a characteristic overhang where we belay on gear. 20m above R4 there is a piton from an old belay.
For the 6th pitch (VI-, 50m) we go straight up on the overhang, which is very loose! There is a piton hidden in the grass. We continue on a dihedral (V+/VI-) until passage to an overhang on the right. Up and left there is a comfortable ledge to belay on gear.
For the 7th pitch (VI-, 50m) we go a little on the right and up for a characteristic shoulder crack (VI-). A little left we take a ramp-dihedral that goes up and right.
Two more pitches follow, 50m - 60m each, with local passages (IV+/V-) aiming the exit boulders of the summit. We aim up and left a characteristic open chimney that leads us to the summit.
Modern sketch of the route.
Old sketch of the route.