The first ascent of the winter route “Brokoloko” (M4+, 70m) was made on 18/1/2025 by L. Karachalios - F. Dimopoulos.
On the 1st pitch (M4, 30m, 3 pitons) we start quite a bit to the right of “Mikroula” aiming for the characteristic chimney. After climbing the chimney, we turn left to setup a belay at the base of a large rock that is also visible from the base.
On the 2nd pitch (M2, 15m) we go straight up until we come across a large ledge, where we setup a belay inside a small cave.
On the 3rd pitch (M4+, 25m, 1 piton) we initially move left and after a few meters we enter a very narrow chimney, until we exit it into an easy snow field.
Useful gear for repeating the route are a set of nuts, a set of friends, a hammer, pitons and slings. Many through holes on the rock help in securing the 3rd pitch. Some permanent pitons have been placed, but in general we can be well secured with nuts and friends. However, attention needs to be paid to the piton at the exit of the last pitch, because it may not be very well placed.
The return is made from the summit ridge or by improvised rappel from the large horseshoe rock face, to the side of the summit.
Some reports about the route can be found here.
