The first ascent of the route “Botini - Spanoudi - Eleftheriadi” (IV+, 240m) was realized in 1970 by P. Botinis - A. Spanoudis - E. Eleftheriadis.
A variation of the 2nd pitch, “Papagiannis - Mourikis” (V, 30m), was made on 21/5/2011 by P. Papagiannis - I. Mourikis.
The line is located on the south face of Gidovouni, a little further to the right of the southern gully and was established as part of a meeting of the Greek Mountaineering Association in Vardousia. Its characteristic feature is the large wedged stone on the 2nd pitch. The route is not visible from afar and in order to have visual contact, one must approach the Gidovouni - Pyramida col and look towards the “hidden” southeastern recess of the mountain.
On the 1st pitch we climb the gully (III) up to the large ledge. On the ledge, on the left, there is a belay on pitons.
On the 2nd pitch we follow the right gully with the wedged stone (IV+/V). The “Papagiannis - Mourikis” variation follows a dihedral to the left of a slab, on the left side of the ledge, passes through a small ledge, after a second dihedral, then goes right into a crack that can be well secured with a nut and then follows a horizontal crack, where there is a piton, to exit to a balancing slab-ramp (higher than the height of the wedged stone) and with a traverse to the right to lead to a ledge above the wedged stone, where a belay is made.
On the 3rd pitch we move to the right gully and then we go a little left over a small tree, up to the characteristic large tree with a white trunk, where the belay is made on its trunk and in a through hole.
On the 4th pitch we continue on a ramp to the right and then on a dihedral to a hollow, while then we go left to a slab, where high on its left, in a vertical crack and a through hole, the belay is made.
On the 5th pitch we go on a ramp and a small ditch to the right, to end up in easy rock, where the second belay can be done around our waist.
Useful materials for repeating the route are a set of nuts, a set of friends, several slings (one large) and pitons.
For access we climb from the sheepfold in Skasmeni Strougka towards the Gidovouni - Pyramida col, approaching the ridge of Gidovouni which ends at the col and is known as the southern ridge or “Botini - Loukeri” route. Then we move right towards the southeastern recess of the mountain. Next to the vertical wall of the ridge is the southern gully. To the right of this gully and the large characteristic walls, there is a steep direct gully that ends in a ledge and then in another gully with a characteristic wedged stone. This is the route.
For the return, after climbing to the top which is a few minutes from the exit of the route, we move south towards the ridge that leads to the Gidovouni - Pyramida col. When we reach the rocky section, we move a little left, we pass the first ravine and then in the second, which has an open, funnel-like, upper part, we begin the descent to an easy gully (II). Inside the gully, quite low from its top, there is a bolt with a ring on the left and about 60m lower there is a second one, suitable for rappelling mainly in winter conditions, since in dry conditions the descent to the gully is easy.
