The “Alpine” route (III 2 M1+, 250m) is a quite remarkable and popular route due to its variety.
It is not a single route, but a combination of neighboring routes with successive climbing and winter conditions. Specifically, the line starts by climbing the northern gully (50°) of the southern tower (pillar) of the crag, which was first climbed by A. Bougiouklou in 1990, from the top of the pillar it follows the “Traverse” route (50°) and finally the exit of the “Hidden gully” route (50° M1+). Alternatively, a more difficult exit can be made by following the exit of the “First time” (45° M3+).
To repeat the route, the necessary gear are a set of friends, some medium-small nuts, 2-3 pitons and 2 snow anchors (Deadman or equivalent).
The first pitch is quite easy. The second pitch, which will reach us at the col of the rock tower, becomes quite vertical after its middle. Most of the time it has good and tight snow. From the col we have contact with the traverse that follows. The next pitch is a little exposed and has some difficulty in placing belays for a few meters. In the middle of the traverse, we make a belay on a piton that exists. Then we climb a small gully with grass (IV) and traverse to the left to reach the tree that is on the plateau below the ridge (60m). From here we have a very interesting variation that goes straight up and to the right of the ridge, to a grassy dihedral that holds snow (M3+). The rocky ridge, which is also the last pitch, is impressive and with a very nice view of the ravine in the background. Depending on the snow that has held, the ridge often becomes tiring but not extremely difficult (IV).
Access is via a marked path behind the ski resort refuge and leads to Trikorfo peak. If the road is open after the refuge, by doing 2-3 km we gain a lot of time as we meet the path above. The path moves on the ridge above the ravine that exists to the right of the refuge. Approaching the peak we traverse it from below and to the left. After 10-15min we are at the descent gully and we have a view of the entire northern crag, where the route is. Depending on the snowfall, the total time to the descent gully is 1-1:30hr. We descend the descent gully, the beginning of which, depending on the snow, is often quite steep. The right side of the rocks has belays. The slope is about 35°-40°. We make two pitches and then where the gully opens, we carefully descend a little more and move right towards the small stone menhir. We continue 10-15min at the edge of the forest with the rocks and we reach an opening of the two large rock towers. From there, the route essentially begins.
The exit of the route leads a little further south from Trikorfo peak.
Sketch of the route.