Nea Zoi is a small settlement in the Pella prefecture of Macedonia, in northern Greece. It lies south of Aridaia in a drainage valley of the plain. The settlement is known for the rock formation Trypios Vrachos, which, according to legend, is where Olympiada, mother of Alexander the Great, conceived him simply by passing beneath the rock arches.
At Nea Zoi there are 4 sectors (Rema, Middle Earth, Trypios Vrachos and Party Animal) with at least 45 sport climbing routes, with grades ranging from 5a to 7c+ and a length between 15m and 35m, on limestone of varied quality. The different sector orientations and the crag’s position provide good climbing conditions mainly during the colder months. To climb the routes, a 70m rope and at least 18 quickdraws are recommended.
Access
Nea Zoi is an 11Km drive from the city of Edessa via the regional road Edessa - Aridaia. The rock formations are located at the entrance of the settlement and surround the local ravine. Access differs for each side of the crag, with the main sectors approached via a dirt road with clear signage that begins near the quarry, about 1Km before the settlement.
Climbing history
The exact history of development at this crag is not well documented. The first route was most likely “Spring of life” (6b, 15m), established by G. Kastanidis at the Trypios Vrachos sector. In 2015, Th. Fasoulas added the second route on the formation, “Olympiados Trypes” (6b, 25m), which connects all three of the formation’s characteristic holes.
In the following years the crag continued to be developed, resulting in an additional 43 sport routes across a wide range of grades. Today, Nea Zoi has become a favorite crag among climbers from Edessa.