Skoufia is an imposing rocky face on the easternmost end of west Vardousia, which is situated between Soufla (2220m) and Meterizia col and is visible from the mountain huts. The great height, but also the sustained incline of the headwall, makes it ideal for routes of greater technical difficulty.
Skoufia offers exclusively mixed winter routes, graded M3 up to M4+, and of a medium height, between 200m to 350m. The routes are characterized by continuous difficulty, extensive steep sections and run-out protection. The westerly orientation supports the formation of ice; however, the elevation usually delays its arrival, increasing the difficulty and objective hazard of the routes.
Access
To climb on Skoufia the most appropriate point of access is the village of Athanasios Diakos, to the east, with the approach made possible by the dirt road for the mountain huts (E4).
To approach the base of the routes we ascend past the POA hut -the higher one of the two-and we continue for about 400m until Meterizia col, from which we turn east towards Skoufia.
Climbing history
Skoufia remained without a recorded ascent until the beginning of the 21st century, when in 2002 the pair A. Karapetakos - I. Kazais completed the route “Unbearable nostalgia” (II 3+ M3, 250m) and opened the door for the inclusion of Skoufia on the climbing map of Vardousia.
This effort was resumed by the establishment of “Incomplete burn” (II M4, 230m) by St. Konstantakopoulos - Chr. Tzotzos in 2008, which put Skoufia into the limelight. An instructors training course conducted on the face in March 2011, led to the addition of three new routes, with difficulties up to M4+ and a height of up to 300m; all of which remain popular until today.
In 2013 the route “Temperateness” (80° M3+, 350m) was completed with the contribution of G. Voutyropoulos - N. Lazanas - V. Zekis and A. Karapetakos and is the longest route on the headwall, being characterized by exposed movement on steep snow.
