Olympos - Zilnia - S. Face
To thirio sto klouvi tou
The first ascent of the route "To thirio sto klouvi tou" (VIII+ A2, 230m) was realized in October 1998 by V. Galanis - H. Haldogeridou - K. Giantsis.
The route moves on the wall which is between the routes "Antio file" and "Kynopraxia" and it follows a relatively direct line which leads to the top after hard artificial and free climbing. With the exception of the first two pitches, the entire route moves on the vertical and overhanging wall, and so it offers spectacular and exposed climbing, while the last pitch is the highlight of this whole climb.
All the belays of the route are equipped with anchors and so provide the possibility of escaping.
The route has never been climbed freely and its repetition requires artificial climbing knowledge and equipment such as 4-5 Skyhooks (different sizes), 3-4 Bathooks (6mm), 2 Black Diamond Talons and aiders.
V. Galanis realized a solo climb of the route on 23/5/1999, after two years of planning, by using big wall techniques and aid climbing.
Source: Anevenontas i. 15 - i. 23, Korfes i. 139
Translation: E. Katsikerou