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Olympos - Zilnia - S. Face

Stigmi tis alitheias

"Stigmi tis alitheias"

The exit of the route and the variation of D. Pekopoulos - S. Karavas - D. Zarras

[1] "Stigmi tis alitheias", [2] "Triti dosi"

The first ascent of the route "Stigmi tis alitheias" (VII, 160m) was realized on 12-13/5/1968 by A. Spanoudis - T. Nastos - E. Eleftheriadis. On 29/4/1978, D. Bountolas - D. Nikiforidis realized the first repetition of the route.

This route is one of the most popular on the face of Zilnia.

The necessary equipment for this climb comprises a set of nuts and friends. Generally, the route moves on rock of good quality and it is equipped with many protection devices.

The 1st pitch starts on a slab, goes straight up for a few meters and then it continues to the left in a crag-dihedral (V+) which leads to a ledge where the belay is set. The 2nd pitch gains the overhangs by taking a detour 2 meters to the left A1 (VII). This is also the most characteristic part of the route and it is well protected. After passing the overhangs, the pitch continues straight up on a vertical dihedral (VI-) and reaches the pretty uncomfortable belay station. The 3rd pitch goes slightly to the right and follows a small dihedral, passes a little ledge and continues in a dihedral (equipped with bolt), which has a piton at its exit and then there is a ledge; a bit to the right, the 3rd belay is built. A variation of this pitch was realized during the first repetition of the route. This variation goes to the left after the 2nd belay but finally ends up at the same 3rd belay. The 4th pitch starts with a very characteristic, easy and geometrical dihedral (V-) which leads to overhangs. At this point the pitch follows an easy field toward a ledge to the right. Above there is another dihedral, leading to a big ledge, where the belay is set. The 5th pitch is relatively easy. At the beginning it goes a bit to the left and then traverses to the right where the belay is set. The 6th pitch follows a traverse to the right; this traverse is equipped with many pitons (VI-). After that, the pitch goes up on a gully which finally leads to the belay, set up on a tree.

The most interesting variation of the route is "Triti dosi" (VI-, 120m) which was opened up on 13/11/1979 by T. Adamakopoulos - V. Hatzirvasanis. This variation has the same beginning as the initial route, but after a few meters it goes on following its own course, moving a bit higher, but finally ends at the same 1st belay. The 2nd pitch of the variation, in order to avoid the difficult passages under the overhangs, traverses to the right and after two pitches it ends on the easy fields that lead to the exiting traverse. The first repetition of this variation was realized on 1/5/1983 by D. Bountolas - E. Tsilidou.

Source: Anevenontas i. 15 - i. 23, Vouna i. 15, D. Bountolas - Climbing guidebook of Zilnia, D. Mavropoulos

Translation: E. Katsikerou

Editing: Routes.gr

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28/06/2017, 22:07:28
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