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Olympos - Mytikas - NW. Face

Paraskevi kai 13

The route

D. Aivazidis climbing 6th pitch and G. Voutyropoulos on R6

The first ascent of the route "Paraskevi kai 13" (V+, 375m) was realized on 13/8/2004 by G. Voutyropoulos - D. Aivazidis - D. Mavropoulos. The route, following natural lines on the crag of Paramytikas, was opened up in 10 hours.

The line begins 15m to the right of the route "Michailidi - Zolota", under a small overhang. The 1st pitch starts by following an easy but loose slab, until the overhang, where a bolt is placed. The overhang is gained with a left-to-right detour (V+) and after that, moving on an easy climbing field, the line leads to a small dihedral (III) and finally to the belay, on a comfortable ledge. The 2nd pitch follows easy slabs (II) up to the base of a loose dihedral, which is basically the natural continuance of the line, but it does not allow safe placement of pros. This dihedral is gained by a right-to-left detour, by following another dihedral (IV-), a more solid one, that leads to the belay, to the right of a gully - chimney. The 3rd pitch moves on easy slabs, upwards and to the right, until the foot of a big dihedral. The 4th pitch enters in the dihedral, which is full of loose parts, but finally recompenses with a beautiful exit (V-). Above this dihedral there is a ledge equipped with a piton and above that ledge there is another one where the belay is found. The 5th pitch is the most beautiful one. At first, it moves upwards and a bit to the right and enters in a small ramp and finally reaches a small ledge, under an open fissure. The pros which need to be placed in the fissure (V+, 6m) are a big friend at the beginning and a very big friend (Camalot #5) just under the exit. Above the fissure there is a ledge and the pitch continues to the right on an easy and solid slab (III), until a comfortable ledge where the belay is found. The 6th pitch could be described as the crux of the route, since it requires extremely good psychological situation, mostly during the second half of the pitch. It starts with an easy field, then it enters in a loose dihedral, the exit of which is blocked by a wedged rock, and finally ends on a ledge, on the right side of which there is a piton. After that, the pitch continues to the left, on a loose and unequipped wall, which is the run-out part (V-, 8m), until the piton which is placed a few meters under the belay. During the first repetition of the route, a piton was added on that wall, to the left of the run-out, which then became less dangerous. As a result, this pitch is now equipped with 3 permanent pitons. The 7th pitch moves inside the big chimney, on a loose but easy field (III-), and ends at the exit of the chimney, where the belay is found, above a small ledge, under which passes the big gully of the route "I. Pantazidis". Opposite, there is another chimney, where the last two move pitches of the route. The 8th pitch begins with downclimbing (II, 5m) and continues with climbing in the chimney up to the belay which is found on the right wall. The 9th pitch is short and easy and leads to the exit of the route.

All the belays are equipped with bolts, except for the last one which is equipped with a piton. Necessary equipment for climbing this route consists of a few pitons of different types, a set of nuts and a set of friends. Escape is possible from any of the belays of the route, but that would be extremely dangerous because of the loose rock parts.

Returning from the exit of the route involves an easy traverse to the left which leads to the path from Skala to Mytikas. From there, one must walk upwards for 5m, following the red marks, until the summit of Mytikas and then descend the gully.

H. Ananiadis - T. Thomidis were the first to repeat the route on 18/8/2005.

Source: D. Mavropoulos, Anevenontas i. 28

Translation: E. Katsikerou

Editing: Routes.gr

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26/10/2014, 03:16:56
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