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Gkiona - Plaka Sykias - W. Face


The upper part of the route

The first ascent of the route "Hloi" (VII- A1 (VII+), 250m) was realized on 25/7/1990 by G. Aligiannis - D. Stravogenis - M. Hatzi.

The route is classified among the modern-classic ones and, well protected as it is, creates this feeling of sport-climbing. Still, it remains a serious mountain route, located on the biggest mountain face of our country.

Useful gear for repeating the route is a set of nuts, friends and slings.

The first repetition of the route took place on 8/9/1990 by M. Tsoupras - G. Theoharopoulos. The slab, found at the beginning of the 4th pitch, was ascended by means of aid climbing (A1). However, on June 1993, G. Voutyropoulos - A. Theodoropoulos ascended the passage by free climbing and rated it at VII+.

An extension of the route named (VII, 90m) was realized on 10/1/1995 by M. Tsoupras - T. Papagiannis.

The approach to the route begins from the right rim of the gully which is formed at the base of the face. Particular caution is required though, since stone falls are not unlikely to occur. Moreover, in case that rope is not used for the traverse leading to R0, be careful, because it is of loose rock quality. Return from "Hloi" by abseiling back down the route. Return from "Hloi direct" either by abseiling back down the route, or by abseiling from the terrace and then by following the way down through Karagiannis' path.

Source: Korfes i. 86 - i. 140, Anevenontas i. 5, D. Mavropoulos

Translation: E. Katsikerou

Editing: Routes.gr

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