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Olympos - Zilnia - S. Face

Ekkremes

"Ekkremes" and "Fouko". "Ekkremes" starts from the left and ends to the right, while "Fouko" starts from the right and ends to the left.

[1] " Ekkremes ", [2] "Spanoudi - Kinatidi - Eleftheriadi"

The first ascent of the route "Ekkremes" (VII-, 220m) was realized on 23/5/1982 by D. Bountolas - H. Delimpaltas.

This route presents a great variety of climbing techniques, since it consists of slabs, cracks, traverses and overhangs. In particular, the last four pitches move on the overhanging part of the face.

The first repetition of the route was realized in May 1985 by L. Giannakoulis - D. Bountolas.

The 1st pitch of the route leads, through easy climbing fields (III), to a ledge, where there is a little tree. The 2nd pitch goes on straight up and then a bit diagonally to the left and so leads to the belay, set on a small ledge. The 3rd pitch moves slantways to the right on a slab, up to the characteristic horizontal ledge of the face. The 4th pitch begins with a passage (VI-) and right after follows a big left traverse, and then the pitch continues straight up, moving on an easy dihedral. Right after this dihedral follows an easy traverse to the left (3m), which leads to the belay, just behind the ridge. The 5th pitch requires self-control, because after the passage on top of the belay (VII-) which is protected, follows a run-out up to a narrow ledge and from there a traverse to the right leads to the belay. The 6th pitch is equipped with pros but it does require strength because it moves on overhanging wall. The 7th pitch, which is the shortest and easiest one according to its rating, leads to a woody ledge on the peak, where the belay is set on a tree to the right.

A variation of the beginning of the route (V+, 100m) was realized on 12-13/10/1968 by A. Spanoudis - D. Kinatidis - E. Eleftheriadis, who started the climb quite a few meters to the right of the original entrance of the route and so they reached R2.

Source: Anevenontas i. 15 - i. 23, Vouna i. 15, Korfes i. 150, D. Mavropoulos, D. Bountolas - Climbing guidebook of Zilnia

Translation: E. Katsikerou

Editing: Routes.gr

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