Vardousia - Koryfi 2437 - SW. Face

Axion esti

Mixed, Traditional

The first ascent of the route "Axion esti" (III M4 A2, 450m) was realized on 10/2/1997 by M. Tsoupras - G. Kekedakis.

Tsoupras had attempted to climb this line three times in the past, each time with different partners (Kallos, Tsoukleidis, Papagiannis, Tzavelas) but all of these attempts stopped before the big wall towards the end of the route. The last time, the climbers finally managed to overcome the difficulties with aid climbing techniques, by using a big friend and placing two bolts and which was rated at A2.

On 10/3/2001, K. Gabriel - G. Panou realized the first repetition of this ascent.

The ratings of the pitches are as following: 1st pitch M3-, 2nd pitch M3 A2 (for the aid parts there is no need for the big friend since this was used only for the placement of the second bolt), 3rd pitch M3-/3 and the 4th pitch M4. The 90m wall at about the 2/3 of the route involves four consecutive pitches hard climbing.

The quality of the rock is very good, except for the last pitch, which involves many loose rock parts and thus requires extra caution (wet chimney blocked by wedged rocks). The route is equipped with minimum permanent protection so the necessary gear for this ascent must comprise pitons as well as 2 - 3 ice screws.

Source: Anevenontas i. 1 - i. 13
Translation: E. Katsikerou
Editing: Routes.gr
Area: Vardousia
Location: Koryfi 2437
Published: 2003-05-01
Modified: 2011-05-27