Varasova (917 m) is an imposing seaside limestone massif in Aitoloakarnania, Central Greece, just west of Antirrio. It is one of the most important climbing areas in the country and the place where Greek climbing evolved throughout the 60s, 70s, 80s and even into the 90s, when modern climbers were able to push techniques and difficulties to levels comparable with the rest of the world.
The steep topography of Varasova first made it a fortified settlement of the ancient Kalydonians, while in the 10th century AD it became a center of ascetic life, earning the name “Holy Mountain of Aitolia”. Characteristic of the area was the combination of fortified monasteries with cave dwellings and other inaccessible elevated retreats. The first modern climbing routes were completed in 1958.
Its location on the coastal front of Evinochori made Varasova both a natural stopover and later a vacation destination. Beyond the sandy beaches of Vasiliki and Kryoneri, a striking sight is the cave-monastery of Agios Nikolaos with the only “egklistra” (enclosure-cave) of its kind in Greece.
Access
Varasova lies 15Km east of Mesologgi. To the north it is bordered by the Evinos River, while to the south it drops steeply into the Gulf of Corinth. The main villages at the foot of the massif, Galatas, Kryoneri and Kato Vasiliki, are accessible via the Ionia Odos (A5), taking the exits for Evinochori and Gavrolimni respectively.
Climbing history
Varasova is defined by the impressive texture of its limestone walls, which offer every style of climbing. With more than 200 routes of traditional, sport, and bouldering, heights ranging from 32m to 900m and grades between UIAA III to X, there is truly something for everyone. With a predominantly western aspect, climbing is enjoyable year-round.
Varasova has long been considered a climbing school: many climbers learn traditional multi-pitch skills here, and it is also where they mature as climbers once they manage to master the mid-grade classics. This does not diminish the historical importance of the crag, to which some of the most renowned Greek climbers have contributed, including Dimitris Korres, Giannis Torelli, Sakis Spanoudis, Aris Theodoropoulos, Dimitris Sotirakis, Giannis Aligiannis, Dimitris Titopoulos, Paul Bailey, Dimitris Tsitsikas and Dietrich Hasse.
The routes of Varasova cover the full range of terrain, features and rock quality, and include true adventure lines. Standout routes include “Shining Path” (VIII, 600m), “Fanatic” (VII, 110m), “Africana” (VI, 200m), “Christoforos Agnoglou” (VIII, 160m), “Bow” (V+, 220m), “Corner” (VI, 200m), “Thaleia” (VI+, 140m), “Firefly” (VI, 170m), “Printezi” (V, 180m), “Herod” (VI, 130m), “Batman” (VII, 60m), “Punk” (VII-, 130m), “Staircase” (VI-, 100m), “Spider” (IX, 85m) and “Natasa” (VII-, 150m). Beyond the technical climbs, the “Classic ridge” (IV, 1200m) is an impressive yet demanding scrambling route in a uniquely wild environment, which in the past served as a test piece for those wanting to try their luck on the peaks of the Alps.
Due to its proximity to the sea, Varasova has served both as a laboratory and a source of frustration for those who maintain it. Research on the corrosion of fixed protection highlights the need for ongoing re-bolting, before the hardware reaches the limits of its specifications.